Sewing machine



S. ZONIS Nov. 9, 1 93 7.

SEWING MAGHINE Filed Oct. 22, 1955 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 ya'ngy Zonz's WWW;

Nov. ,9; 193.7. s, MS 2,098,770

' SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 22. 1935 Sheets-Sheet 2 @Wng Zonz's Na 9,1937. s. zoN|s 2,098,770

SEWING MACHINE Filed 001:. 22, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheef 3 Nov. 9, 1937. sZoNls 2,098,770

' SEWING MACHINE,

I Filed 001:. 22. 1955 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 sydn y Zanz's KRWvew I I W7 6%-3% W M Patented Nov. 9, 1937 UNITED STATES. PATENT oFFieE SingerManufacturing Company,

Elizabeth,

N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application October 22, 1935, SerialNo. 46,071 30 Claims. (01. 112- 81) This invention relates toimprovements in sewing machines and has for its primary object toprovide a stitch-forming mechanism of simple construction and adaptedfor high speed operation.

The invention has for a further object to provide a simple form ofthread-handling mechanism for cooperation with an endwise reciprocatoryand laterally vibratory thread-carrying needle in the formation ofstitches.

More specifically, the present invention has for an object to provide atwo-needle hemstitching machine with thread-handling mechanism of simpleconstruction and adapted to form chainstitch open-work seams.

With the above and other objects in view, as will hereinafter appear,the present invention consists in the devices, combinations andarrangements of parts hereinafter described in connection with theaccompanying drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment of theinvention and in which:

Fig. l is a front side elevation, with the bedplate partly in section,of a single-thread chain- -stitch hemstitching machine containing theim-' proved thread-handling mechanism. Fig. 2 is a bottom plan View ofthe nemstitching machine. Fig. 3 represents an enlarged cross-section ofthe machine bed-plate, substantially on the line 13-3 of Fig. 1. Fig. 4represents a detail view of the feed-lift actuating mechanism. Fig. 5represents a vertical longitudinal section of the machine bed-plate,through the throat-plate needleapertures and with the loopers inloop-seizing .;position. Fig. 6 is a top-plan view showing the looperand needle-guard actuating mechanism, in the position thereofcorresponding to that illustrated in Fig. 5. Fig. 7 represents anenlarged detail view, partly in section, of an auxiliary ten- -siondevice for controlling the slack needlethread. Fig. 8 is a detail viewillustrating the position of the thread-loop detained by the looperbehind the needle during the second penetration of the piercer-apertureby the needle. Fig. 9 "represents the needle-thread pull-01f device, ina cross-sectional View of the machine bracket-arm substantially on theline 9-9 of Fig. 1. Fig. 10 represents a vertical section of the machinebracket-arm substantially on the line I0-ID of "Fig. l and illustratingthe intermittent-tension in released position. Fig. 11 represents ahorizontal section of the intermittent tension in closed position. Fig.12 is a top plan view of the throatplate. Fig. 13 represents alongitudinal section of the throat-plate substantially on the line I3'I3of Fig. 12.

The needle and feed-actuating mechanisms of thepresent hemstitchingmachine correspond substantially with the disclosures in the U. S 5Patents to G. M. Eames et al., No. 1,721,072, July 16, 1929, and to A.H. DeVoe, No. 1,940,399, Dec. 19, 1933. It is to be understood, however,that the present invention is not limited to the details of constructionof the needle and feed-actuating mechanisms disclosed in said priorpatents and herein described in more general terms.

As illustrated in the drawings, the present hemstitching machine has theusual frame comprising a bed-:or cloth-plate I, from which rises ahollow standard 2 of an overhanging bracketarm 3. terminating in a head4.

Journaled in suitable bearings provided inthe overhanging bracket-arm isa rotary main shaft 5 carrying at one end a belt-pulley 6 and at its;opposite end a crank-disk I. The crank-disk I is connectedby a link 8with the needle-bar 9 journaled for vertical reciprocation in suitablebearings provided in the head 4. The needlebar 9 .carries at its lowerend a supporting plate Ell-pivotally sustaining a pair ofneedle-carriers Iland I2 for adjustment toward and from each other.Carried by the respective needle-carriers are needles I3 and I4, andalso upstanding guiderods I5 and I6 vertically reciprocated with theneedle-bar.

ffhe guide-rod I5 passes through a transversely apertured swivel-pin I'Ijournaled in a bearing boss at the free end of a crank-arm it carried bya horizontally disposed rock-shaft I9 journaled in the bracket-arm head4. The guide-rod I6 is similarly controlled by a swivel-pin 29 journaledin a crank-arm2I of a rock-shaft 22 substantially parallel to therock-shaft I9 and also journaled in -the head 4. As more fully disclosedin the prior U. S. Patent No. 1,940,399, the respective rock-shafts ISand 22 are operatively connected to pitman rods 23 and 24 derivingendwise movemenl',s-- -from a rotary cam 25 secured for rotation with aspur-gear 25 driven from the main shaft 5; to rotate once for threerotations of said mainshaft. 7

,The machine has the usual piercer mechanism comprising a mainpiercer-and-shaper 25 carried by a piercer-barf! journaled for verticalreciprocation in the bracket-arm head 4, said piercer being actuated bythe usual connections with a horizontally disposed rock-shaft'28journaled; in suitable bearings provided at the rear side of thebracket-arm 3. Clamped upon the the opposite end is provided with astrap em rock-shaft 28 is a crank-arm 29 9) pivotally connected to oneend of a pitman 30 of which bracing an eccentric 3| upon the main-shaft5.

. The usual auxiliary piercer 32 is preferably mounted upon theneedle-bar plate ['0 so as to be disposed in front of the main-piercer26, the latter being recessed at opposite sides thereof tore-1 ceive theneedles in their narrowly spaced reciprocations. The main-piercer 26reciprocates once for each needle reciprocation, but the rela-. tivetiming is preferablysuch that said mainpiercer both descends and risesin advance of :the corresponding movements of the needles. Being carriedby the needle-bar, theauxilia lypier'c- 'er 32 of course reciprocateswith the needlesnbllt "in a single path.

Secured upon the cloth-plate I =is-a throat-- plate 33 provided withparallel feed-dqgslots .34

extending along opposite sides of a work-supporting bar 35.' I hethroat-plate bar 35 has an auxiliary-piercer aperture 36, rearwardly ofwhich are the adjacent needle-apertures 31, separated bya' guard-plate38 extendedtddepend vertically from the underside of the throat-plateand in the direction of feed of the work. The guardplate 38 has avertical slot 39 adjacent to and connecting the front ends of theneedle-apertures 3], said slot 39 providingclearance for the 30main-piercer 26. The slot 39 terminates at its lower end in aneedle-guiding web 40 of which the opposite faces are divergentlyinclined down' wardly to guide the needles in their narrowly spacedreciprocating movements. The guardplate 38 serves to prevententanglement of the adjacent limbs of the needle-thread loops.

The upper face of the-throat-plate bar 35 is provided with a shortgroove 4| extending from theauxiliary-piercer aperture 36 tothe'piercer- -slot 39. Thework-penetrating movement of the hanced by theresulting uniform spacing of the.

. hemstitch-seam apertures. r

The upper edge 42 ofthe guard-plate 38, rearwardly of the piercer-slot39,-is likewise cut-away to obviate interference with the cross-bars ofV the hemstitch seam, while feeding' the work.

Preferably the edge 42 is inclined upwardly from the piercer-slot 39 tomerge with the'upper ace of the throat-platebar 35 at substantially therearward ends of the needle-apertures 31, said needle-apertures being vpreferably slightly elongated in the direction of seam formation'tofacilitate the formation of chain-stitches.- -Rear-. wardly of theneedle-apertures 31, the throatplate bar v35 is provided'with parallelgrooves 43 afiording seam clearances.

Operating through the throat-plate slots 34 is a lower four-motionfeed-dog 44 opposed-byte.

presser-foot 45 of any usual orsuitable construction. The feed-dog 44 iscarried birkaZfeed-bar 46 pivoted, at one end, to a rocker l lgcarrledby 'afeed-advance rock-shaft 48. At its opposite end, the feed-bar isoperativelyengaged by a rock-arm 49 of a feed-lift rock shaftill', saidwardly of the needles.

the advantage that'the needles [3 and l4 there'by" rock-shafts 48 and 50being journaled in suitable bearings provided at the under side of thebedplate I. The feed-advance rock-shaft 48 carries a crank-arm 5ipivotally connected to the lower end of a link :52, of which the upperend is ad-' justably securedupon a segment-lever 53 'disposed outside ofthe bracket-arm. The segmentlever 53issecured upon a fulcrum -shaft 54journaled in the-bracket-arm standard 2, said seg-.;

'ment-lever carrying a roller-stud 55 entering a scam-groove 56 formedin the side face of a feedcam 51. The feed-cam 51 is secured for rotation .with :the spur-gear 25 in the usual manner andis so formed as toimpart a work-advancing impulse to the feed-dog 44 while the needles are:out of the 'work, .and a retarded return ,move-' ment during theformation of three successive stitches.

'Clamped upon the feed-lift rock-shaft 50 is a crank-arm 58 connected bya link 59 to a rock arm'60 pivotally mounted upon the fulcrum-shaft 54.The rock-arm 60 carries a roller-stud 6| entering a feed-lift cam-groove62 in the side face'of' the spur-gear 25'. The cam-groove 62 is soformed that the feed-dog 44 is raised into vancing movement thereofand'remains lowered, out-of engagement with the Work, during theretarded return movement of the feed-dog.

Journaled in bearing-lugs 63, 64 and "65, de-

pending from the-cloth-plate-l is a rotary looperactuating shaft 66connected to be'driven from- 'themain-shaft 5 in one-to-one relationtherewith. Secured upon said shaft 66, adjacent .to

the bearing-lug 63 is a spur-gear 61in driving en'- gagement with asimilar gear 68 upon a loopershaft 69 journaled in the bearing lug 63above engagement with the work during the'work-adand substantiallyparallel to the looper-actuating, shaft 66. Carried by the looper-shaft69 is a rotary looper formed with aloop-seizing beak l0 and with -aloop-detaining and -spreading wing H. Between the heel 12 of thebeak-forming portion of thelooper and the wing II is-a throat I3 whichreceives the thread-loop a, a, seized by the looper from the needle andin which throat the thread -loop is detained in spread condition untilafter the looper has seized a'succeeding,

thread-loop and has carried it through the previously formed anddetained thread-loop. In the preferred embodiment of the invention,'the'looper-beak path of rotation is disposed betweenthe spacedwork-penetration paths of the'needle l3, thedooper-beak 10 cooperatingwith the needle l3 at the side thereof remote from the needle l4 andhaving its loop-seizing movement in the direction of feed of the work;

Cooperating with the needle !4, at the side thereof remote "from theneedle 13, is a rotary looper 14 similar to the above described looper,but reversely constructed so that the beak of said looper l4 likewisehas its loop-seizing movement in the direction of feed of the work. Thelooper Miscarried by a'lo'oper-shaft 15 journaled in the vbearing-lugffi i in alinement with the looper-shaft 69, said shaft'l'fibeing connected to the actuating shaft GSBby spur-gears l6 and ii.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 6 and 8 of the drawings, it will benoted'that the alined axes of rotationof the loopers are disposed in avertical plane which is rearward of the vertical.

plane containing the paths of reciprocation of theneedles t3 and i4,whereby the bottoms of the looper-throats 73 are likewise positionedrear- This arrangement has descend, with certainty, in front of bothlimbs a, a, or b, b of the previously formed needlethread loops helddetained on the loopers, regardless of the fact that the work isadvanced only once during the formation of three successive stitches andthat the needles I3 and I4 are vibrated laterally to descend indifferent paths.

Cooperating with the respective needles I3 and I 4, at the looper sidesthereof, are needle-andloop guards I8 and 19. The guard I8 has asupporting shank mounted in a guideway 8I, formed in the bearing-lug 63,for horizontal sliding movements of the guard transversely of the lineof seam formation. The guard-shank 8B is held in its guideway by acover-plate 82, removably secured upon the bearing-lug 63 by screws 83.Depending from one end of the guardshank 80 is a roller 84 entering acam-groove 85 formed in a barrel-cam 86 secured upon the outer end ofthe looper-shaft 69. The end of the guard 18 adjacent to the needle I3is provided with a needle-receiving notch 81 and, rearwardly of saidnotch 81, with a loop-detaining notch 88. The notch 87 is preferably soformed that, when the needle I3 is engaged by the walls of said notch81, a thread-clearance is provided between the needle and the bottom ofthe notch 81 for the limb of the thread-loop formed by the needle andextending to the work. While, therefore, the needle-engaging notch 87does not interfere with formation of the needle-thread loops and thepresentation of said loops to the looper, the rear wall of said notch8'! acts as an abutment for the loop-limb a, to oppose yielding movementof said loop-limb responsive to initial entry of the looper-beak I0 intothe thread-loop. The loop-detaining notch 88 is adapted to receive bothlimbs a, a of the thread-loop detained in the throat 73 of the looper,said guardnotch 88 functioning primarily to insure against prematurecasting off by the loopers of the loop a, a, thereby to minimizeliability of thread entanglement from undue twisting of prematurelycast-off loops.

Bearing in mind that the needle I3 penetrates the work at points spacedcrosswise of the line of feed and that the path of looper rotation isfixed, it will be understood that the corresponding looper-detainedloops will extend in different directions from the work to the looper.To compensate for the different angles of the looperdetained loops, thepresent axis of rotation of the looper is positioned lower, relativelyto the throat-plate, than as conventionally located in priorchain-stitch machines employing loopers of the present type. Thisarrangement favors reentrance of the looper-detained loop by the looperafter seizure of a subsequently presented needlethread loop.Furthermore, the extension-angle of the looper-detained loop is improvedby the engagement. of the limbs of said loop by the guard-notch 88,which tends to determine a loop-position which is more nearly constantfor the different paths of needle-reciprocation. Incidentally, theguard-notch 88 also aids in holding both limbs a, a of thelooper-detained loop rearwardly of the needle-path.

The guard I9, which cooperates with the needle I4, likewise has aneedle-receiving notch 87 and a loop-detaining notch 88, said guardhaving its shank 89 slidably mounted in a guideway 90 in the frame-lug54 and retained in said guideway by a removable cover-plate 9|. Theguard 19 has a depending roller 92 entering a camgroove 93 of a barrelcam 94 carried by the looper-shaft I5, whereby said guard T9] isintermittently reciprocated horizontally transversely of the line ofseam formation. Access to the cover-plates 82 and 9| is afforded by theusual slide-plates 95 and 96 upon the cloth-plate '-I. 5

After a work-advancing movement of the feed- 1 dog 44, the main-piercer26 is closely followed in its descending movement by the needles I3, I4,

main-piercer 26, to enter the work-aperture initially formed by thefront piercer 32 and enlarged or shaped by said main-piercer. When theneedles approach completion of their downstroke, they move slightly awayfrom each other laterally into the spaced relation which said needlesoccupy in their subsequent loop-presenting position. This lateralmovement of the needles is derived from the rotary cam 25, but isassisted, if necessary, by the divergent faces of the needle-guiding webII] below the throatplate.

The needle-guards I8 and 19, which are both dwelling in retractedpositions during the beginning of said work-penetrating movement of theneedles, are advanced toward the needles as the latter are approachingthe lowest point of their downstroke, said needle-guards completingtheir advancing movement at substantially the bottom of theneedle-movement to engage the needles and thereby to prevent fouling ofthe needles and loopers. The needles now rise into loop-presentingposition, the rising movement of the needles being preceded by therising movement of the piercer 26.

The beaks of the loopers enter the threadloops presented by the needlesin their initial rising movement. In the continued rotation of. theloopers, said thread-loops are caught by the heels of the loopers andare detained in the looper-throats until they are again entered by thebeaks of said loopers.

Immediately after the seizure of the threadloops'by the loopers, theneedle-guards I8 and I9 are retracted by the cams 86 and 94, and theneedles complete their rising movement. When the needles begin theirsucceeding descent they are moved farther apart into their more widelyspaced relation, in which they now penetrate the work adjacent toand atopposite sides of the work-aperture previously entered. The main piercer26 again descends in advance of the needles, said-needles being causedto'slightly approach each other as they complete their downward movementto assume their proper spaced relation for subsequently presenting loopsto the loopers. The time of operation of the needle-guards I8 and I9 is,of course, the same as above described in connection with the descendingmovement of the needles in their more narrowly spaced relation.Consequently, should the needles lag in their approaching movement, asfor instance by reason of close texture of the work, the notchedportions 8'! and 81' of the needle-guards will engage and push thelagging needles into their proper positions with respect to the loopers.The limbs a a. and b, b of the loops previously formed and held spreadby the loopers are engaged by the notches 88 and 88' of the advancedneedle-guards I8 and I9, for the purposes hereinbefore described.

The needles I3, I4 complete their upstroke in their loop-presentingspaced relation and, in the beginning of their succeeding descent, saidneedles approach each other into their more nar- 7 arm,

rowly spaced relationto'againenter the workaperture immediately afterthethird entrance of. said aperture by the ,main-piercer 26. The

needle-guards function ,as before described, while the needles againseparate slightly preparatory to rising into loopresenting positions 7thereof. The ;feed dog: 44 remains ineffective during the above.describedthree work-penetrating movements of theneedles, but during the,cornpletion of the third rising 'moven ent and the beginning of i thesubsequent descending movement of the needles in their narrowly spacedrelation, the feed-dog 44 is raised and functions to advance the work,preparatory to a'repetition of the above described three-stitch cycle.The seams formed by the respective needles correspond substantially withthe singlethreadchainstitch seam disclosed in' the U. S. patent to A. H.i

DeVoe, No. 1,920,784, Aug.-1, 1933. a V Referring now moreparticularlyto the threadcontrolling devices upon the machine brackettheneedle-threads are intermittently drawn from a suitable thread-supply(not shown) by a thread pulloff. mechanism comprising a threadpull-ofirod 9]. vibrated in apath between i the spaced members of anlinvertedU-shaped guide-post 98, secured upon the bracket-arm 3 at the rear sidethereof andprovided with suit- I ripheral flange .Illl .said'bush ing'being adjustably secured by a lock nut I02, Seatedwithin the bushing 100is a supporting sleeve I03 pro.-

' vided, intermediate its ends, with a peripheral fiange I04 inengagement withthe front face. of the bushing-flange I-0I.; The sleeveI03 is secured to thebushing I100, for turning adjustment therein, by aset-screw IIJi'n-said sleeve havin a v V forwardly extending post 106threaded upon its springIH functioning toimpose a frictionaldrag outerend to receivefan adjusting nut I01.

outer end thereoL-is a slot I08 terminating at itsqinner -;end in apost-aperture I I18 .communie cating with the interior of thesleeve I03Embracing the post ,IIIG'are tension-disks I09 and 1 III, between whichis disposed a threadseparating disk II I. Mounted upon thepost I 06,

sion-release ,disk H2 anchoredagainst rotation by having a central web-I I2 thereof disposed within the posteslot I08 The tension-disks .199,III}, and they intermediate disk'III are also restrained againstrotation, and by a pin II3 extending forwardly from the sleeve-flangeI04 through suitable peripheral notchesin said disks. interposed betweenthe adjusting nut I0! and the tension-release disk I I2 is the usualbeehive upon the threads passed. betwee nflthe tensiondisks I09, I III,at 'opposite sides offthe separating-disk III. I I l Endwise slidable" iI tension-release pinI I;5 provided, within the bushing ,IOII, withanjannular shoulder IIfi engaged by one end of ,a eoil spring jfibearingagainst the inner end of the sleeve I03. 'The inner end re Pi Iex nd eueathefiu hin in suitably tinied relation with. re-

Extending longitudinally of the postIIOB, fromthe adjacent to the outertension-disk 10.9, is a ten.- I

ithin lithe sleeve I03 is a lQQSifZl-YO. v

intoposition for'engagement by an eccentric or,

cam I I8 carriedby the main-shaft 5; The opposite end of the pin H5 isreduced to enter the post-slot Ill 8 for engagement with'the releasediskweb -I.I2 A light spring, I I9 is interposed between the tension-releasedisk I I2 and the tension-disk IIlSto exert a minimum tension upon thethreads when the-maximum tension is released. by movement of therelease-disk II2 into ineffectiveposition, under the action of the eccentric LIB. The maximumtension timing may be varied by adjustment or thebushing I99 in .the

bracket-arm 3, thesleeve I03 andits securing set-screw I05 providing forcorrecting the posi-;'

tion of the tension-disk anchoring-pin H3, after adjustment of thebushing I00, so that said pin II3 will not obstruct or divert thethreads.

Inasmuch as the release-pin H5 acts directly upon therelease-disklI2,,the maximum tension is substantially instantaneously released andapplied, theminimum tension imposed bythe spring II9 remaining constant,regardless of the maxi-' mum-pressure adjustment. of the spring H4. r

The threads are suitablydirected from the guide-post 98'to theintermittent tension device above described and then to the usualthreadtensions 120 before passing to the slack-thread controller I2I.From said slack-thread controller, the threads are led through take-upthreadeyes I22, carried by the needle-bar, to an auxil iarys1ackcontrolling. device, the respective needles.

iReferring more particularly to Fig"? of the drawings, the auxiliaryslackethread controller. 7 35:

referred to comprises a supporting post I23 suitably mounted upon thefront side of the bracket arm head '4. Embracing the post 523 are twopairs of tension-disks'IM and I25, between which,

pairs of tension-disks is interposed'a coil-spring j 126 embracing thepost I23.

' spring I26 is limited by the hubs/of cup-shaped The action of theguard-members I2] "and I28 partly embracing the respective pairs oftension-disks. 'The guardmember I27 may be fixedly secured upon the postI23, as by solderor otherwisa while the guardmember I28 'is preferablyremovably secured by a screw I29 threaded into the. end of the post I23,The post I 23 is provided with a slot I30 extending from one pair-oftension-disks to the other, access to said slot being provided by athreading-slit I3I in the post midway of the length-of the slot I30. 7 i

7 One of the needle-threads is passed between the" disks ,|24,-the innerof said disks yielding laterally to a pull uponthe thread to introducethe 7 thread, through the slit I3I, into the slot I 33. The other threadis introduced'into said slot I30 in the'same ,mannereto' pass the threadbetween the tension-disks I25. The pairs of tensiondisks I24 and I25impose a mild tension uponthe threads, suflicient to properly controlsaid threads between the take-up I22 and the needles.

The intermittent tension device is eifective to apply its .maximumfrictional drag upon the threads, during the period of eachstitch-forming cycle beginning just before seizure of the needle-threadloops by the loopers and ending imbefore passing to mediately prior tothe setting of the previously formed stitches, the final setting of thestitches being effected by the rotating loopers and occurring as theneedles begin their descent.

During the rising movement of the needles, the take-up eyes carried bythe needle-bar serve to pull up theloops of thread cast 01f by the'loopers, 7

and it is to insure this loop-pulling-up action that the maximumtensionof the intermittent tension-device is applied at this time. When theeyes of the rising needles are passing through the work, sufficientfriction may be imposed upon the threads by the work to prevent orretard, momentarily, the drawing of the threads through the needle-eyesby the take-up. The slack-thread controller accommodates this conditionby yielding to the pull upon the threads.

The intermittent tension-device changes its frictional drag upon thethreads from maximum to minimum practically instantaneously as theneedles are ending their up-stroke, so that a minimum tension may beapplied during the final setting ofthe stitches, thereby to avoid threadbreakage. The frictional drag of the threads upon the loopers issufficient to effect setting of the stitches, regardless of the factthat very little drag is imposed at this time upon the threads by thetension-devices. The minimum tension remains effective until the needleshave completed their descent.

While the pull-off rod happens, in the present case, to be effectiveupon the threads during the time that the maximum tension is applied bythe intermittent tension-device, this particular time of operation ofthe pull-off is merely incidental and is not essential tothe successfuloperation of the machine. In fact, it is the frictional drag imposeduponthe threads by the member of the guide-post remote from thethread-supply which insures pulling the threads from the supply side ofthe pull-off rod.

It is to be understood that in certain of its aspects, the presentinvention is not limited to two-needle sewing machines generally or tochain-stitch hemst' ching machines in particular, as certain features ofthe invention are obviously adapted for use in single-needle sewingmachines whether adapted to form lock-stitches or to formchain-stitches.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim hereinis:

1. Ina sewing machine, a thread-carrying needle having laterally spacedwork-penetrating movements followed by lateral movements into asubstantially constant loop-presenting position, means for actuatingsaid needle, a rotary looper complemental to said needle in theformation of chain-stitches, said looper having a loop-seizing beak anda loop-detaining wing constructed and arranged to enchain loops ofthread presented to said looper by said needle, and means for rotatingsaid looper.

2. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatorythread-carrying needle having lateral movements for penetrating the workin spaced paths and lateral movements into a substantially constantloop-presenting position, means for actuating said needle, arotarylooper provided with a loop-seizing beak having a path of rotationin a plane between the work-penetration paths of said needle, saidlooper being constructed and arranged to enchain loops of threadpresented to said looper by said needle, and means for rotating saidlooper.

3. In a sewing machine, a thread-carrying needle, actuating mechanismfor imparting endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory movements tosaid needle, a rotary looper complemental to said needle in theformation of chainstitches and provided with a beak having a fixed pathof rotation in a plane transverse to the plane of needle vibration, saidlooper having its axis of rotation offset laterally from said plane ofneedle-vibration, and means for rotating said looper.

4, In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a thread-carryingneedle, means for vertically reciprocating said needle a plurality of 7times for one eflective work-advancing movement of said feedingmechanism, means for vibrating said needle laterally in a planeextending crosswise of the line of feed, a rotary looper complemental tosaid needle in the formation of chain-stitches, said looper having apath of rotation about a horizontal axis extending transversely of saidline .of feed and disposed rearvward of the plane of needle-vibration,and means a fixed loop-seizing path of movement in the direction of seamformation, and said loop-detaining' throat being disposed rearward ofthe plane of needle-vibration in the loop-seizing position of saidlooper-beak, and means for rotating said looper.

6. In a sewing machine, a reciprocatory threadcarrying needle, means forreciprocating said" needle, a rotary looper having a needle-thread loopseizingpath of movement at one side of said needle, means for rotatingsaid looper, a needle-guard movable toward and from the needle-path ofreciprocation at the looper side of. said needle, and means foractuating said needleguard relatively to said looper.

'7. In a sewing machine, a throat-plate, a reciprocatory thread-carryingneedle, means for reciprocating said needle, a looper having aneedle-thread-loop seizing path of movement at one side of said needle,means for actuating said looper, a needle-guard having a constantneedleguiding posiiton at the looper-path side of said needle andbetween said looper-path and said throat-plate, and means for actuatingsaid needle-guard to and from said constant needleguidlng positionduring each complete needle reciprocation.

8. In a sewing machine, a reciprocatory thread: carrying needle, meansfor reciprocating said needle, a rotary looper complemental to saidneedle in'the formation of stitches, means for rotating said looper, aneedle-guard movable to and from a constant needle-guiding position in adirection substantially parallel to the axis of rotation of said looper,and means for actuating said needle-guard to and from said constantneedle-guiding position during each complete needle reciprocation.

, 9. In a sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory thread-carryingneedle, a horizontal-axis rotary looper complemental to said needle inthe formation of stitches, a horizontally reciprocatory needle-guardmovable to and from a constant needle-guiding position, and means forreciprocating said needle-guard to and from said constant needle-guidingposition during each complete needle reciprocation.

10. In a. sewing machine, a work-feeding mechanism, a verticallyreciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a rotary looper complemental tosaid needle in the formation of stitches and rotatable about ahorizontal axis extending transversely of the line of feed, aneedle-guard reciprocable toward and from s'aidnee'dle in a horizontalpath substantiallyparallel to the looper-axis-of r'otation, and meansfor reciprocating saidheedleguard.

11. In a sewing machine, a thread carrying needle, actuating mechanismforimpar'tingendwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory movements tosaid needle,-a looper 'compl'em'entalj to said needle in the formationof stitches and having-a1needle-thread-loop seizing path of, movement atone side of said needle, a needle-guard movable to and from an effectiveneedle-guiding ating said needle-guard. I

dle-guard movableinto an effective n'eedle 'guiding position inadvanceof-the seizure of needle,

thread loops by said looper, and means for -actu.

I 13. In a sewingmachine, work-'feedingl mechanism, a reciprocatorythread-carrying-needle, actuating mechanism for imparting lateralvibratory' movementsto said needle in a direction substantiallytransverse to the line of seam-:for- "mation, a horizontal-axis rotarylooper comple-1 mental to said needle in the formation of stitches andhaving a fixed needleethread-loop seizing path of movement at oneisideof said needle, means for rotating'said loopenz'a heedle guard movableto and from'a-i'constant needleguiding position at the looper pathsideof'said needle, and "means 'for actuatingfisaid needleguard to and fromsaid constant needle guiding position during each complete needle.reciprocation, thereby to insure in successive stitches a substantiallyconstant relative position, of. the needle and looper at thetiniepfseizure of the needle-thread loops.

' 14. In a sewing machine, 'work-Ieedingmecb anism, a verticallyreciprocatorythreadcarrying needle, means for vibrating saidneedle'cross- 1 wise of the line of feed, a looper cornplemental to Said needlein the formationoi" stitches and having a fixed loop-seizing pathof'movementiat one side of said needle, a'needle gua'rd having-aneffective needle-guiding position at the looperpath side of said needle,and'meansfor'reciproeating said needle-guard,transverselyof said line offeed to and from effective needle-guidihgpositionQ r 15. In asewingmachine, 'a-work-support a reciprocatory thread-carryingneedle,-a"'looper having a needle-thread-loop seizingpath of movement atone side of said needle, means for laterally vibrating said needle.below said worksupport across the path of loop-seizing movement'of saidlooper, aneedle-guard movable relatively to said needle and looper toback up the needle during its lateral movement across said looper-path,and means for actuating said neetile-guard. l I I 1 j 7 '16. In achain-stitch 'sewingmac-hine, workfeeding mechanism, anendwisereciprocatory thread-carrying, needle, having lateral 'movements' forpenetrating the'work in spaced paths and lateral movementsinto asubstantially con- "gteavro V 'stant loop-presenting position, means foractuating said needle, a rotary. looper complemental to said needle inthe'formation of chain-stitches and rotatable abouta horizontal axisextending transversely of the line of feed, saidlooper hay-' ing aloop-seizing beak and a loop-detaining wing constructed and arranged toenchain loops of thread presented to said looper by said needle,

means for rotating said looper, and a needle- 7 1'7. In a chain-stitchsewing machine, an'endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needlehavthread-loop guard adapted to engage and control i0 7thread-loops'held' detained by said looper.

ing lateral movements for penetrating the work in spaced paths andlateral movements into a substantially constant loop-presentingposition,

means for actuating said needle, a rotary looper I Y "having its path ofrotation transverse to thepath of lateral movement of said needle, saidlooper having a loop-seizing beak and a loop-detaining- Wing constructedand arranged to enchain loops of thread presented to said looper by saidneedle,

means iorerotating said looper, a needle-thread loop guard movablerelatively to said looper for engaging and controlling thread-loops helddetained by'said looper, and

means for actuating "said loop-guard.

18. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, an {endwise reciprocatorythread-carrying needle having laterally spaced work-penetratingmovements and lateral movements into a substantially constantloop-presenting position, means for actuating said needle, a rotarylooper having its path of rotationin a plane transverse tofthe path oflateral movement of said needle, saidlooper being constructed andarranged to'enchain-loops' of thread presented to said looper by saidneedle,

, means for rotating said looper, a needle-and-loop guard providedgwitha 'thread loop receiving notch for engaging and controlling thread-loops5 held detained bysaid looper, and means for moving said guard to andfrom efiective needle:guiding and loop-controlling position. I

19. In asewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterallyvibratory, threadcarrying needles, needle-actuating mechanism 7including means for vibrating said needles laterally in directionstoward and from each other, and mechanism complemental'to said'needlesin *the formation of chain-stitchesincluding a pair of' rotary looperscooperating with the respective needles at the'relatively remote sidesthereof in the seizure of needle-thread loops.

20. In a sewingv machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatoryand laterallyvibratorythread-car rying' needles, needle-actuating mechanism ineludingmeans for vibrating said needles laterally in directions toward andfrom" each other, rotary loopers cooperating with the respectiveneefdlesat the relatively remote sides thereof in the 'formation ofchain-stitches, said loopers having fixed paths of rotation in parallelplanes trans-, verse to the lateral movements of said needles,

and means for rotating said' loopers.

21. In a sewing machine,,work-feeding mechanism, a pair'of verticallyreciprocatoryand laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles,needleactuating mechanism including meansforv vibrating saidneedleslaterally indirections toward and fromeach'other, a pair ofhorizontal-axis rotary loopers having loop-seizing beaks cooperatingmote sides thereof in the formation of chain stitches, means forrotating said: loopers," a work-.

with the respective needles at therelatively repenetrating piercerdisposed between said needles, and means for reciprocating said piercer.

22. In a sewing machine, work-feeding means, a pair of endwisereciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles arrangedabreast with respect to the line of feed, means for relatively vibratingsaid needles laterally in a plane transverse to the line of feed,horizontal-axis rotary loopers cooperating with the respective needlesat the relatively remote sides thereof in the formation ofchain-stitches, alined loopercarrying shafts having their axes ofrotation disposed rearwardly of the plane of needle-vibration, and meansfor rotating said shafts.

23. In a sewing machine, work-feeding means, a pair of verticallyreciprocatory and laterally vi bratory thread-carrying needles arrangedabreast with respect to the line of feed, needle-actuating mechanismincluding means for laterally vibrating said needles transversely of theline of feed, a pair of rotary loopers cooperating with the respectiveneedles at the relatively remote sides thereof in the formation ofchain-stitches, said loopers having fixed paths of rotation abouthorizontal axes transverse to said line of feed, and means for rotatingsaid loopers.

24. In a sewing machine, work-feeding means, a pair of verticallyreciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles arrangedabreast with respect to the line of feed, means for laterally vibratingsaid needles transversely of the line of feed, rotary looperscooperating with the respective needles at the relatively remote sidesthereof in the formation of chain-stitches, horizontally disposed andalined rotary shafts carrying said loopers, a looper actuating shafthaving driving connections with the looper carrying shafts, and meansfor rotating said looper actuating shaft.

25. In a sewing machine, work-feeding means, a pair .of verticallyreciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles arranged abreast withrespect to the line of feed, means for laterally vibrating said needlestransversely of the line of feed, rotary loopers having fixed paths ofrotation and cooperating with the respective needles at the relativelyremote sides thereof in the formation of chain-stitches, horizontallydisposed and alined rotary shafts carrying said loopers, means for lrotating the looper carrying shafts, needle-guards cooperating with therespective needles at the relatively remote sides thereof, and means formoving said needle-guards to and from effective needle-guidingpositions.

26. In a hemstitching machine, work-feedin means, a pair of verticallyreciprocatory and latpiercer-slot connecting said needle-apertures, the

upper edge of said guard-plate rearwardly of said piercer aperture beingdepressed below the upper face of said throat-plate to thereby provideclearance for the cross-bars of the hemstitchseam.

27. In a hemstitching machine, work-feeding means, a pair of verticallyreciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles arrangedabreast with respect to the line of feed, means for relatively vibratingsaid needles in directions toward and from each other, loop-taking meanscomplemental to said needles in the formation of stitches, areciprocatory work-penetrating main piercer disposed between saidneedles, an auxiliary work-penetrating piercer disposed in front of saidmain piercer in the line of seam formation, and a throat-plate providedwith adjacent needleapertures and with piercer-apertures arranged in theline of feed, the Work-supporting face of said throat plate having awork-clearance groove connecting said piercer apertures.

28. A throat-plate for hemstitching machines provided with adjacentneedle-apertures and with mainand auxiliary-piercer apertures, saidthroat-plate having its upper face provided with a work clearance grooveconnecting said piercer-'- apertures.

29. A throat-plate for hemstitching machines provided with adjacentneedle-apertures and with a piercer-aperture connecting the front endsof said needle-apertures, the upper face of said throat-plate betweensaid needle-apertures being depressed to incline upwardly from saidpiercer-aperture.

30. A throat-plate provided with adjacent elongated needle-apertures andwith a needlethread-loop guard-plate depending from the under side ofsaid throat-plate, said guard-plate having a needle-aperture separatingportion cut away to provide a needle-aperture connecting piercer-slotterminating at its lower end in opposed and downwardly divergentneedle-guiding faces.

SYDNEY ZONIS.

